TEACHING IN HA'IL, SAUDI ARABIA

I would be lying to all of you and myself if I didnt say that I hated my job for the first week I was here. It was the final week of a 7week cycle and it was revision week before the students (and staff )went on a 2week holiday. I wasn't sure of anything and I think the students were tired and in that universal pre-holiday mood.

After a paid 2 week holiday, I returned to work on Saturday the 3rd of November. Remember we work Saturday to Wednesday. There were 2 days of revion and then the students wrote exams. Frantic marking and moderating ensued and last Saturday we began with our new schedules, with most of our students progressing to level 2.

Let me contextualise this all for you. I work at the University of Ha'il's Prep Year College. We have about 4000 girls on campus. They are divided in to the College of Medicine, College of Arts and College of Science. Education is free in Saudi Arabia and the students are paid to be on campus. They receive a monthly allowance from the government and are all issued with atm cards. The only requirement is that they attend classes, so an important part of an ESL teacher's job is to take attendance. If they miss too many classes they are kicked out, however they can fail courses and repeat their subjects.

A moment on the history of education for women in Saudi Arabia. This country is only a little over 70 years old. Education for girls only began in 1960 and until 2002, womens education fell under the Department of Religious Guidance and not the Ministry of Education. This was done to ensure that
their was no deviation from the purpose of female education, which was to make them good wives and mothers. Now I can hear all my feminist friends sighing in despair, but please go to this link and read the article, which gives a very clear explanation and description of the challenges and avances in female education in this incredibly interesting country.
http://ehlt.flinders.edu.au/education/iej/articles/v6n1/hamdan/paper.pdf
Stats from 2010 state that only 50.3% of women over the age of 25 have a secondary education. the UNDP report of 2003, claims that the Saudi literacy rate is 62% overall, with males having a 72% literacy rate and females, 50%.

Anyway, if you really want to be informed, read the article. Its far too easy to sit in the West and just judge and speak of what should or shouldnt be. I look at the world as it is and can say with clarity that the West certainly doesnt seem to be getting it right. I am grateful for my training as a clinical social worker in the people-centred approach, which demands that we step into the shoes of our clients and never assume their desires or where their pain stems from, but to rather to hear them with with empathy, unconditional postive regard (not the same as approval) and personal power.

My students arrive on campus fully covered with an abaya (black full cloak), hijab (head scarf) and niqab (face cover).  They take these off and have to wear a long black skirt and then they wear whatever tops they want and wear alot of make-up. I remember someone saying to me before I came here, "under every abaya and thobe, is just another human being". Such true words, my students are lovely. They have different mannerisms etc to what I am used to, but like anyone respond well to being respected, listened to and taught with passion. They are very protected from external influences and so are a lot "younger" than my students back home, and there is a beauty in their naivety.

One of the things that I have had to get used to very quickly is how isolated from the rest of the world, the girls (and boys, I am told) are. I was teaching nationalities and was asking students different questions about the countries to improve their conversation skills. So, I said USA, about half the class knew that was America. I asked the girls to give me the names of any big cities from there, less than 5 knew of New York and 2 of them had heard of Washington. In the same class (26 students), 3 knew that Obama was president and the rest had never heard of him. This is not an indictment on their cleverness, but rather highlights just how isolated they are.

This means a complete re-think about teaching styles, I cannot use the usual examples and contexts I could before and as music is haram (forbidden), I some times feel stifled in getting creative in the classroom. Relationships between boys and girls is also haram, so that (never mind sex), politics and religion is completely forbidden in the classroom. Yesterday I was shocked to find out that the girls are not allowed to play any form of sport at all and never have been. They  didn't even have PE (physical education) at school.

BUT they are a delight to teach, they make me laugh alot and they laugh at me alot. I am trying to learn each girl's name in each of my classes. (26+26+46). They have very different names to ours, so it is difficult and they crack up at my pronunciation. They also love my short white hair. They stare and point as I walk around campus, and run up to me and say, "I love your hair teacher" and then run away giggling again. They are childlike in so many ways but I love it because I get to "play" with them every day while teaching them English. From Saturday I will be teaching 6 x 50minute sessions a day, what a gift.

I am loving them and am so blessed to have found my way here, to this place in this time!

COMPOUND LIVING

I an now settled completely at Mishar 1 compound and it is surreal in so many ways. This could be the loneliest existence in the world. Certainly my first Friday here was. It was also Keanan's  (my son, for those of you who don't know), Valedictory and I was heartbroken not to be there. By 17h15 I had not seen a soul and was feeling desolate. However I realised it was all up to me and I needed to make sure that I was not so alone in the future. So, I put on my big girl panties and started meeting people. That particular evening a new friend Bryan came over and we played cards. He is a sweet older man who enjoys playing cards and has been in Ha'il for 5 years. He knows where everything is and where to go.

A highlight of our existence is definitely the shopping bus. For Al Khaleej employees it comes on a Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday evening as well as a Thursday Morning. Remember our weekend is on Thursday and Friday. We all clamour on, have light conversation, a lot of laughs and then get dropped at a different shopping centre every time. (More about this in the post on Exploring Ha'il).


Our Shopping Bus

So my philosophy has been to make sure I grab every opportunity to experience as much as possible while I am here. I have one of two options, I can literally curl up in a ball and yearn for my husband and children, which would be my default reaction or I can just get out there and laugh a lot and absorb every experience.

I now play texas-hold-em poker on a Wednesday night with a group of the men. We laugh a hell of lot, down non-alcoholic beers and talk as much sh*t as possible while trying to play a decent game of poker and winning the pot, although the stakes are low. Last week I even won 104 Saudi Riyals! This has become one of the highlights of my week.

My Poker Buddies

During the first week of the vacation, (Remember I was here for 5 days and then went on a 2 week holiday!), I was invited to a braai with an American couple who have a delightful little girl. Mom is an English teacher with me and Dad is a stay at home dad who home schools their little girl. They have made the back of their house suitable for outdoor living. Their neighbours from New Zealand joined us and it was a fantastic evening, with very good conversation.

Lovely big mat with cushions outside to enjoy amazing desert evenings
 

Then there are my 2 closest mates on compound. Aaliya is only 23 a teacher from Johannesburg, She and I have just connected in the most wonderful way, even though I am old enough to be her mother. I think we bring out the best in each other. Then there is Liam, a 38 year old Canadian, who has been an ESL teacher for 15 years and has been in Ha'il for 3. The 3 of us try and walk every night. A lap around the compound is about 10mins and we try and do 5, although the other night, we walked for almost an hour and a half. We have brilliant conversations about EVERYTHING and laugh a lot, which is perfect for those stomach muscles! What I love about this friendship is that we completely respect each others individuality and if any of us need time alone, it just happens with no one taking it personally.

I think a key aspect of this life is that everything is intensified. Zeem (my husband) used to always say a month in Afghanistan is like a year in normal life (He worked there as a chef for a year) and he was quite right. Normally friendships would take longer to develop but here with those you connect with its intensified and that is a wonderful thing.

I have had a group of people in my apartment and we all ended up trying to order a take away delivery with no luck so Aaliya and I ordered a taxi and went and fetched it. Then last Friday I hosted a home cooked meal which was a great success, please remember I can't cook. I was tempted to get them to sign indemnities before starting their meal.



Aaliya, Shamima, Me and Bryan at my place on the take-out night.

Just before my dinner....
 

Take out Night
 










On our walk last Thursday, we walked past the married couples row, and they were on a break from poker. Liam goes but only for a short while, so I will go with him this week and either play from the start or buy in when he leaves, so another poker group to enjoy hopefully.

Another highlight since being here was the halloween trick or treating we had for the little kids on compound, which we only had on the 7th because so many people were away on the 31st. It was adorable.

Later that evening I went to a Halloween party. I laughed so hard I had sore stomach muscles. Some people dressed up and we even had a smoking ghost who after midnight went quad-biking. It was a hysterical sight. Everyone was a little out of it on moonshine  (home-made wine) and I felt like I was at a UN gathering. Romania, Puerto Rico, USA (and many very different states), South Africa, Canada, New Zealand, Britain, Ireland. One of the guys is very musical and played his guitar and had a liking for the 80s. The guys made shakers and drums and sang along. Awesome music, great laughs! I finally left at about 2am.


Midnight Quad -Biking ghost
 

The Smoking Ghost!

The Ghost uncovered...




Andy playing guitar (really made me miss Zeem)!

Our very own Charlie Sheen. I want that shirt, Nigel!

Corey taking advantage of Nigel



All the naughty "boys"

Last night I started yoga and it was fantastic. When it finished, I texted Liam and we walked (Aaliya was having some time out). My night ended with a bubble bath and going over to Nazra, a newer friend for a chat.

For now, I am truly grateful for my life here and the difference it can make to our life back home.
I miss my family so much but I would be lying if I didn't also admit that I am relishing the chance to be by myself and grab all the new experiences and before I know it my family will visit and I will be able to share it with them.

FIRST DAY IN HA'IL

So, thank heavens, there was actually a town, quite a big one. The bus stopped at a hotel and the supervisor for Al Khaleej came out. His name is Madian, a Syrian man, who is so polite and more than helpful. We climbed in to his old Mercedes and went off to my new home a compound called Mishar.
Let me just inform you that if anything sinister is going to happen to me in Saudi, it will be on the roads. Our taxi drivers back home could give driving lessons here and improve driving by at least 200%. For me its doubly scary, because they are driving on the "wrong side of the road".

We got to the compound and my apartment is charming. The pictures tell you everything. However, I didnt get the chance to settle. We dropped my suitcase and Madian took me straight to campus. Now use your imagination, to picture the craziness.
He may not step on to the womens campus so he drops me at the front security and tells me to find Mona. I go through, and let me tell you there are girls EVERYWHERE, so I stop to ask and NO ONE speaks English. My sense of humour was fading fast, sleep deprivation was kicking in and the volume of the cacophony of young women talking at the top of their voices seemed to be reaching a point where eardrums could burst.
Anyway I eventually found Mona who is our contact admin person on campus. She immediately took me to the English department, where I was greeted with glee because they are so short staffed. I was immediately told that I would be teaching a 2 hour class at 12noon. I burst out laughing, assuming that they were joking. No such luck, I was given the 6 units of material that had already been covered and was told that it was super easy because it was just revision week.
I went into one of the teachers areas that I was assigned to. 2 teachers per desk, but everyone was really warm and friendly. I reminded myself to breathe and remember it was Wednesday, so like Friday, and I had the "weekend" ahead.
The class actually went well. I was share the teaching reality with you in my next post. I was truly blessed because this group were really fabulous to teach. They actually engaged a little with me!!!
After class, my working day was over, the bus was ready to take us back to the compound. One of the older teachers, Edna from Canada, asked me if Madian was coming to take me to the shops, because I obviously had nothing in my apartment to eat or drink.
We phoned him and he let me know that there was a bus that night at 8pm. Thank heavens I had bought plenty of water on campus.
I had an incredible afternoon unpacking all my brand new things, had a nap and then went in search of the bus...(which is the highlight of life as an ex-pat in Ha'il.

Coming up to the compound at the foot of the mountain outside town

Standing in the kitchen, looking at my front door, with desk to the left and lounge area
 

Almost everything brand new for my kitchen

standing in the lounge looking at kitchen area

Little dining room table

view of other side of kitchen

Brand new canteen of cutlery, I have a "thing" for good cutlery

bedroom, note sealed new bedding

dressing table

wardrobe area

Area betw bathroom and bedroom

Entrance to bathroom

rest of bathroom

My courtyard, my entrance is first door on the right

My apartment with the most magnificent mountain as a backdrop. This mountain moves me!

Will continue tomorrow, I promise....

RIYADH TO HA'IL

written on the 10th of October 2012

Hi everyone

So much happened since my last update, I am in Hail now and it’s beautiful.

So to continue the story, that night Osama came around to the hotel and asked if I wanted to go for supper somewhere. I am sure that Saudi has more McDonald outlets than anywhere in the world. If not McDs, then it is similar junk food.  So I asked to go somewhere with no fries. He suggested Lebanese so I agreed. Little did I know what I was letting myself in for… we went upstairs to the family section (ie women can be there on their own or with men).  At first, it was good, mineral water brought straight to the table and bowls of olives and other pickles (all complimentary). Then the menus, only in Arabic! So Osama offers to order, well the tastiest but richest food on the plate and far too much. Set me back 55saudi riyals as well! Anyway, it was just another experience on a rapidly growing list and he was good company.  A Jordanian man who longs for his home country and dotes on his 3 little girls and his wife, it was a pleasure to buy him dinner . I was told that I was free for the whole of the next day and that my flight to Ha’il was on Wednesday morning at 5:30 so Osama would fetch me at 3 in the morning to be at the airport. 

I could not believe it when I woke up at nearly midday on Wednesday. I decided I had to do some exploring on my own; I emailed Waleed and asked him where I should go. His answer was a unhesitating Kingdom Tower and that it was close by.  I went to reception for directions, they were astounded that I would consider walking, and said they would help me call a taxi. Think movies trying to get a cab in NYC, besides being nearly knocked over and gesticulating like a mad woman, I did finally get into one!

The kingdom Tower is any shopaholics dream. It is the cleanest shiniest mall I have ever seen. I felt like a plaasjapie and was sure that my mouth was hanging open. All the big names were there, Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Sak 5^th Avenue, Debenhams, H & M and even Tiffanys.  This was my first experience of the absolute joy of an abaya. I was wearing slip slops, casual clothes and I could walk in and was treated the same as anyone else, so unlike the welcome you get from some designer shops in Cape Town. It is such an equaliser.  I was reminded that you should be careful what you wish for,  how many times have I said I wish we could all just be issued with robes so we could stop the material greed? But my darling daughters would have been in their element, I tortured them by sending bbm pics.

On a more humerous note, I was hungry so went down to the food court, packed with men and women but only men sitting at the tables. I saw a group of women at the McDonalds so I waited for them to finish ordering and followed them. OMW the family section was beautiful, so I was happy to be there, but had schwarma not McDonalds but with the seemingly standard chips and Pepsi (in my case sugar free). I felt nervous about taking a taxi back, considering I can’t even say them name of the hotel. Oh I forgot to mention that the cab there was 15 sar (R30). It’s R2 for 1sar. Anyway I had 8 x 1sar notes and then the next denomination was 50sar, the cab driver took the 8sar. My return driver told me to pay him how much I wanted to, so I gave him 15 but he would have taken anything I gave him and was so kind and helpful.  Can you believe I ended up napping and then went in search of dinner and walked to Kudu a chain of fast food restaurants that’s big here, again the family section was lovely and each booth actually has curtains for privacy.

I could not sleep, my alarm was set for 2am and I was so nervous I would oversleep.  The last time I saw the time was 1:10. So I felt terrible. The drive to the airport seemed to go on forever. The departure hall is stunning but everything in Arabic, I felt quite intimidated, but again everyone so helpful. Now I don’t know if you know this, but I am an anxious flyer, I have over the years developed idea that I know what a plane should sound like. The voice in my head says things like why is it so quiet, an engines failed, whys it so loud what’s going on etc. I think the emirates flights were so good because I had earphones in from when I boarded. But hey we first heard the travellers’ prayer from the Prophet so I had to be safe!  Thank heavens a 55minutes flight!

So we are nearing Ha’il and I am at a window seat, and I look out the window, I see desert and desert and a little more desert and then an occasional camp with 2 or 3 tents and 2 or 3 camels. Captain says about to land, I think, “Wait! You are making a mistake there isn’t even a town here!”  Again I get the giggles and can’t contain myself, needless to say I did get some odd stares!

The airport reminded me of the old PE Airport but this one is pink. I went through arrivals easily and a driver was there to meet me. He couldn’t speak English and we go outside. Again the giggles, there is a movie set in Mexico, where there is a similar looking airport and cars in chaos all around and quite a few old Mercedes. I think Brad Pitt was in it. I could barely contain myself, well in fact I just kept laughing, I am sure the driver thought I was nuts. I felt slightly hysterical thinking please can I see a town as we leave the airport. No such luck, only a highway with Palm trees down the centre, and desert on either side.  So I arrived in Ha’il, I just wondered where it had gone to. Anyway enough for tonight, that was Wednesday morning at 06h45 and its Friday now and after midnight and I start a full teaching schedule tomorrow.

Love you all, still proudly South African, but falling in love with this country fast!

 

 

 

 

 

Entrance to Kingdom Tower and the first thing I see is Aldo. where is Tarna?

Debenhams

Enormous, La Senza! Who wuld have guessed

Mcdonalds, note the partition between where men and women order

Flat Roof - shooping centre, tall section is 4 Seasons Hotel

Saks

Gucci

Chanel

Armani

Moschino

Kudu, across the road from the hotel

Family Section, only time women can go in

 

Families sit at booth and close the curtains

Road from airport to town

Ha'il airport

RIYADH - PART 1

 written on the 10th of October

 

So I finally left Dubai, those 13 hours took forever. Not the nicest airport at all, no people skills. The flight to Riyadh was only 1hr and 40 minutes, but we were delayed because 4 people checked in late, Emirates so accommodating. I watched "the Lucky One" such a cute movie. Dinner was served, again an awesome meal and with that and the movie, I felt like we were coming in to land 2 minutes after we had taken off.

I put on my abaya and took a deep breath expecting to wait in queues for hours and for there to be complete chaos, boy was I wrong. We went into a massive arrivals area, with so many police/security/army, I don’t know which. They wear immaculate olive green uniforms with gold regalia, so smart. One of them came over to me and asked if it was my first time in Saudi. After I answered he directed me to one of the queues, a few minutes later he came back and said he was wrong and took me to another one, much shorter all women travelling alone, but not all Western. Passport control was a breeze, took electronic fingerprints and then off I went to get my suitcase. Considering I had checked it in CT I was slightly nervous that it would in fact be there. Couple of minutes and along it came, about 3 men rushed to help me take it off the carousel. Then customs, I was dreading this, I had been warned that they could keep you for ages, making you unpack your bag and even open your laptop to check what movies etc were on it. Nothing like, they that put it through the xray thingy and off I went. As I came through the sliding doors, I saw Osama with my name on a board waiting for me. He showed me where to sit and we waited for Sulaiman also from CT (if only we knew we were travelling together). I asked about my sim and I asked for STC to be my provider. (tip from Rhoda). Poor Sulaiman took double the time I did. We dropped our luggage in the car and then went to the STC Counter, again fast and friendly service. by the time we left the airport parking my sim was active and about 2 hrs later my bbm was up and running.

We stopped at a supermarket on the way to the hotel, you cannot believe how cheap things are - 2l water, 2 cans pepsi lite, sandwich with turkey and salad, cheese croissant , pringle like chips and a biscuit thing - R36.

Then the hotel, omw, think of those old motels in American movies, well there you have it, but clean and again so friendly and helpful. Most importantly, a comfy bed and working aircon. The staff ran around to find me a converter plug for my laptop, our 3 prong round ones are just not an option here or in Dubai. I would have been better off with a 2 prong plug, they fit here.

We were to be ready at 10h00 on Monday to be taken to the office. After not sleeping properly since Friday night and all the emotions of saying goodbye I was finished. But before he left us, he left us with 2 bottles for our medicals, 1 for urine, 1 for stool. Yuk never had to that before!!!!

The next morning we were fetched spot on time. Head office is in a very impressive building down town, not far from the hotel.

I met Waleed, my big boss, the one I have been chatting to on Skype, very charming.

Then off we went for our medicals, all this time I had my 2 bottles in a packet in my bag, gross! So first a pregnancy test, I got the giggles. Then only once we had the result off for a chest x-ray. So I go into the room, male radiologist, broken English, asks if I am wearing clothes under my abaya. Tell him yes, says I must remove and put on the special robe that they can xray through. I ask if I must remove my underwear and he says no. So we do x-ray. I am sitting at the end of the passage waiting with Osama. The little man comes carrying my xray gesticulating and going on about something in loud agitated arabic. My heart is beating thinking what the hell is wrong. Osama starts laughing you can clearly see the metal from my bra on the x-ray! But I didn’t have to redo it because they could see my lungs are fine.

Then we went and bought an entire new laptop cord and it was only R40 and I needed 16 id photos and they were R50. Money makes no sense here. I know a new laptop cord is a few hundred rand in SA and id photos are much cheaper. We are dropped at the hotel, Sulaiman was being fetched for the airport later in the afternoon. He is also going to Ha'il and he and his wife taught there last year. She and their children will join him when he has his iqama. (Thats like your full on permit, looks like a drivers licence and then you can open a bank account etc etc). So we decide to go for lunch after the current prayer time is over. Everything closes 5 times a day for half an hour for prayer. So we stroll down the road, looking at the different food places, every 2nd shop is some sort of fast food outlet. We find a place that seems to sell different variations of rolls like the Hero Rolls at Steers. We ask if I am allowed in because it doesn’t say that it has a family section. Remember in Saudi, restaurants are for men, but some have a section for women and families. The man says I am welcome, we got to the counter and order. Next thing the other man comes over and says I have to leave so sweetly and apologetically at least. Sulaiman waits for our food while I go to the shop. Again, giggling too myself.

Downstairs in the foyer of the hotel are tables and chairs with places set to eat so just enjoyed our lunch there. Then I went off to my room and fell asleep watching Suits.

Enough from me, for now. Later I will email again and tell you about my Lebanese dinner last night and my first adventure off on my own in a taxi to the Kingdom Tower. I am sleepy AGAIN so I am going to watch Mad Men for a while.

My heart is happy and every time I speak to Zeem and the kids they all seem so content and settling in to things. I am overwhelmed by a sense of this being the right thing to do. The control freak in me struggled to let over the reins but I have left our life in good hands and we will all grow from this. I am blessed with an amazing husband and beautiful children and such supportive family. I am deeply grateful to be on this journey.

The first supermarket, we stopped at

A take-away coffee shop
 

 

 

 

 

The view from my hotel room
 

The Medical Centre

The junk I bought while Sulaiman was getting lunch for us, all this only R32

Cigarettes only R18 but the Health Warning is scary, rotting fingers! Best I give up soon and there is no smoking in public at all